Smart Locks & Keyless Entry: Connectivity Types Compared
Bluetooth, WiFi, Z-Wave, and Zigbee smart locks all do the same basic job, but connect completely differently. Here's what actually separates them.
Every smart lock lets you skip a physical key, but how it connects determines what you can actually do with it — and that's the part most product listings gloss over. This guide covers the four common connectivity types on the market, what each one is genuinely good at, and where the tradeoffs actually matter for a Central Florida household.
Quick answer: Bluetooth-only locks are simplest and most reliable but only work when you're near the door. WiFi (built-in or via bridge) adds true remote access at the cost of needing a strong signal at the door. Z-Wave and Zigbee integrate into a smart home hub rather than connecting directly to your phone.
Bluetooth-only smart locks
Bluetooth locks connect directly to your phone when you're within roughly 30 to 40 feet — no WiFi network, hub, or subscription required. You can auto-unlock as you approach, use a keypad code, or unlock manually through the app. The tradeoff is straightforward: no connection means no remote access, so you can't check lock status or let someone in from across town.
WiFi smart locks (built-in or bridge-connected)
WiFi locks either connect directly to your home network or use a small bridge device that translates Bluetooth to WiFi. Either way, the payoff is real remote access: lock and unlock from anywhere, get notifications when someone enters, and issue or revoke codes without being home. The cost is reliability at the margins — a weak WiFi signal at your front door, a router restart, or an internet outage can all interrupt remote functionality, though the physical keypad code still works locally regardless of connection status on nearly every model.
Z-Wave and Zigbee smart locks
These locks don't connect to your phone or WiFi directly — they join a smart home hub (SmartThings, Hubitat, a Z-Wave/Zigbee-compatible system) which then handles remote access and automation. This matters most if you already run a broader smart home setup and want the lock to trigger automations — for example, unlocking disarms an alarm system, or a door sensor and lock report status on the same dashboard.
| Type | Remote Access | Needs a Hub? | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bluetooth-only | No | No | Simple upgrade, no ongoing connectivity needed |
| WiFi (built-in or bridge) | Yes | No (bridge acts as the connection point) | Remote access without an existing smart home system |
| Z-Wave / Zigbee | Yes, via hub | Yes | Integrating with an existing smart home setup |
Why connectivity choice matters more in a retirement community
A large share of the smart lock installs we do are in 55-plus communities across The Villages and similar developments, and the calculus there is often different from a typical single-family home. Remote access matters more when family members live out of state and need to let in a caregiver, or when a homeowner splits time between Florida and a northern home seasonally. A WiFi-connected lock that lets you issue a temporary caregiver code from your phone, regardless of where you physically are, solves a real problem that a Bluetooth-only lock can't.
What about power and battery life?
Nearly all smart locks run on standard AA batteries lasting roughly 6 to 12 months depending on usage, with a low-battery warning well before failure. WiFi locks with built-in radios draw somewhat more power than Bluetooth-only models. Every smart lock we install includes a physical backup — either a keypad code that works without any connectivity, or a mechanical key override — specifically so a dead battery or outage never actually locks you out.
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Frequently asked questions
Do I need a smart home hub to use a smart lock?+
Only for Z-Wave or Zigbee models. Bluetooth-only and WiFi-based smart locks (including those using a WiFi bridge) work independently through their own app, without any hub required.
What happens to a smart lock if the WiFi goes down?+
You lose remote access and notifications until the connection is restored, but the lock itself keeps working locally — the physical keypad code and any mechanical backup key continue to function regardless of internet or WiFi status on nearly every model.
Can I retrofit a smart lock onto my existing door, or do I need a new door?+
Most standard residential doors accept a smart deadbolt without modification, since the majority of models are built to fit standard backset and bore hole dimensions. Older doors with nonstandard prep are the main exception — worth a quick compatibility check before buying hardware.
Ready to have this installed or serviced? We handle the hardware covered in this guide across our full service area.