Frequently Asked Questions

Yes. We're open 7 days a week from 7:00 AM to 10:00 PM, including weekends and most holidays. We answer the moment you call — no waiting for a shift change or callback window. Whether you're locked out on a Sunday evening or need a rekey on a Saturday morning, we treat every call with the same urgency as a weekday emergency.

How soon we reach you depends on how close you are to our Ocala base. When you call, we give you an honest, real-time ETA based on our current location — not a pre-scripted estimate. We answer the moment you call and drive directly to you without stopping for other calls on the way.

Yes. We are a bonded and fully insured locksmith business operating in Ocala and Central Florida. Our business is properly registered in Florida, and we carry full general liability insurance and a surety bond on every job. Florida does not require a state-issued locksmith license in our service area, which means anyone can call themselves a locksmith with no accountability — which is exactly why we hold ourselves to a higher standard through bonding and insurance. Our technicians are background-checked before joining the team. Being bonded means you have financial recourse if something goes wrong. Being insured means your home, car, or business property is protected during every service call. We carry proof of insurance and can provide documentation on request.

Yes. For most residential locks we can cut a new key on-site using a code pull or by impressioning the lock cylinder directly — no original key needed. For vehicles, we can cut and program a new transponder key or key fob for the vast majority of makes and models right from our service van. The only exceptions are certain high-security residential key systems (like Medeco or Mul-T-Lock with patented blanks) or very new luxury vehicle models that require dealer-specific equipment. Call us with your vehicle year, make, and model or your lock brand and we'll confirm before coming out.

Our standard approach is always non-destructive entry. We use professional lock picks, bypass tools, and air wedge systems designed to open locks without drilling, forcing, or bending the door frame. In the vast majority of car and home lockouts, we leave zero visible evidence the lock was ever opened. Drilling is an absolute last resort — used only when a lock is severely damaged, jammed, or broken in a way that cannot be resolved with picking. If drilling becomes necessary, we will explain why, get your approval, and quote a lock replacement before we start. We never damage property without your explicit consent.

Yes, always. We quote you the price over the phone before dispatching and confirm it on-site before touching anything. Our pricing is flat-rate for standard services: car lockouts run $75–$150, residential lockouts run $75–$150, and rekeying a 3-door home runs $75 to $130 depending on lock type. Commercial jobs are quoted based on scope. There are no fuel surcharges, trip fees, or after-hours markups within our operating hours of 7 AM to 10 PM, 7 days a week. The number we give you is the number you pay.

Yes. We repair sliding patio doors across our whole service area — roller replacement for doors that stick, grind, or jump the track; handle set and latch replacement; mortise-style lock bodies on the doors built that way; stainless steel track caps where the aluminum sill has been grooved; and auxiliary foot locks and bolt locks for added security. We don't do glass replacement or screen doors, so if your issue is a cracked or fogged glass unit you'll want a glazing specialist instead. Sliding door work is quoted after we look at the door, because what it takes varies with whether the rollers are worn or just need adjusting, whether the panel is impact-rated, and whether the sill has been damaged. Old or discontinued hardware is rarely a problem: replacement handle sets are specified by hole spacing, latch position, keyed status, and mounting style rather than by the door's brand, so we measure what's there and fit a current equivalent into the original holes.

We are 100% local. Locksmith Enforcement is owner-operated out of Ocala, FL — when you call (352) 230-1659, you speak directly with your technician or the owner, not a call center in another state. We do not subcontract jobs to third parties or use a national dispatch board. Every job is handled by our own bonded and insured technicians who are background-checked before joining the team. This distinction matters: many locksmith phone numbers you find online are national dispatch services that send whoever is available nearby, with no accountability for pricing or insurance. With us, the person you speak with is the person who shows up.

Rekeying a standard home with three exterior doors typically costs between $75 and $130 in our service area, depending on the number of locks, their brand, and whether any require special handling. Per-lock pricing is also available if you only want certain doors rekeyed. The cost of rekeying is always significantly less than replacing locks outright, yet provides the same security benefit — all old keys simply stop working. We quote the price upfront before starting, so you always know the total before we begin. Same-day service is available 7 days a week.

Rekeying changes the internal pin configuration of your existing lock cylinder so it works with a new key. The lock hardware stays the same — only the pins change. Lock replacement means removing the entire lock and installing new hardware. Rekeying is the right choice when your lock is in good condition and you simply want new keys — it's faster and costs less. Lock replacement makes sense when your hardware is worn, damaged, low-quality, or you want to upgrade to a higher-security or smart lock. We can advise which is appropriate after a quick look at your existing hardware.

Yes. We install a range of keypad and smart locks including Schlage Encode Plus, Kwikset Halo Touch, Yale Assure, and Ultraloq U-Bolt. These locks range from simple keypad-only models to full Wi-Fi locks that integrate with Apple HomeKit, Amazon Alexa, and Google Home. They allow you to set unique codes for family members, cleaners, or contractors, check lock status remotely, and receive activity alerts. Most standard residential doors in the Ocala area accept these locks without modification. Installation typically takes 20 to 30 minutes per door including app setup.

Yes, for the majority of vehicle makes and models. We carry professional-grade automotive key programming equipment that covers most domestic vehicles (Ford, GM, Chrysler/Ram), Japanese makes (Toyota, Honda, Nissan, Subaru), and European brands (VW, BMW, Audi, Mercedes) for many model years. When you call, give us the year, make, model, and VIN of your vehicle and we'll confirm in advance whether we can program your key on-site. The rare exceptions are some luxury or specialty vehicles that require dealer-only programming — we'll be upfront if that's the case rather than wasting your time.

Typically 40 to 60 percent less, depending on the vehicle. Dealerships charge for parts, programming, and a significant labor markup. A locksmith provides the same cut-and-programmed key with lower overhead. For example, a Toyota key fob that costs over $200 at a Toyota dealer is often $129–$259 from us. Luxury vehicles with proprietary systems have less price spread, but savings are still common. We always quote the price before starting so you can compare — we don't hide fees or tack on charges after the work is done.

Call us with your year, make, model, and VIN — you can find the VIN on your dashboard (visible through the windshield on the driver's side) or on your registration card. We'll look up the key specifications, cut a new blade from scratch, and program it to your vehicle's immobilizer system. This is called an 'all keys lost' scenario and takes a bit longer than a standard duplicate cut, but we can handle it on-site for most vehicles without towing. It's important not to attempt repeated wrong-key starts, as some vehicles lock the immobilizer after multiple failed attempts.

For most Ocala-area homes, we recommend the Schlage B60N or Schlage B62N as an upgrade from builder-grade hardware. These are ANSI Grade 1 deadbolts — the highest residential security rating — with a hardened steel bolt, pick-resistant cylinder, and anti-saw pins. They're significantly stronger than the Kwikset or Defiant deadbolts typically installed by builders, and they're priced reasonably. For homeowners who want smart lock capability, the Schlage Encode Plus adds Wi-Fi and Apple Home Key compatibility. For maximum security — particularly on commercial properties or high-value residential homes — Medeco and Mul-T-Lock offer restricted key systems that cannot be duplicated at hardware stores.

A typical three-door home with front door, back door, and garage entry averages $225 to $400 for Grade 1 deadbolt installation, including hardware. If you want smart locks instead of traditional deadbolts, add approximately $100 to $150 per door for the smarter hardware (smart lock device cost not included in this estimate). We quote everything upfront so you know the total before we begin. For homes with multiple entry points or those wanting a mix of standard deadbolts and smart locks, we'll walk through the options and give you a written quote that fits your budget.

Yes. Commercial new construction lock installation is one of our higher-value services. We work directly with general contractors, developers, and building owners to supply and install all door hardware throughout the build — from main entrance commercial deadbolts to interior office locks, storage room hardware, and exit devices. We handle scheduling to fit construction timelines, provide keys at handoff, and can set up a master key system so the owner has a single key for the entire building while staff keys work only for their authorized zones. Call us early in the planning process to quote the full hardware package.

We serve every Ocala neighborhood. Once on-site, picking a standard residential deadbolt takes 5 to 15 minutes depending on the lock. We do not drill unless the lock is physically damaged or broken — non-destructive entry is always our first approach and succeeds in the vast majority of cases.

No — non-destructive entry is our standard method. We pick or bypass the lock using professional tools that work on the cylinder pins without damaging the hardware. After we're done, the lock functions normally. Drilling is only used as a last resort when the lock is physically seized, broken, or so severely worn that picking is not viable — and we always inform you before drilling and quote any replacement hardware.

High-security locks are designed to resist picking, so entry takes longer and may not always be possible without drilling. Call us with your lock brand and we'll advise honestly on the likely approach before we dispatch. In many cases we can still open them non-destructively; in others, drilling and replacement is the faster path. We carry common high-security replacement cylinders in the van.

Yes, and we recommend it when a lockout involves lost or potentially stolen keys. We rekey the lock at the same visit — typically 15 to 20 additional minutes per lock — so anyone holding the old key can no longer use it. We cut new keys on-site and can make as many copies as you need in the same visit.

In most cases, yes — we attempt non-destructive entry first, whether that's manipulating a mechanical dial, diagnosing and resetting an electronic lock, or picking a key-locking mechanism. Whether it's possible depends on the safe's brand, age, and lock type, and on how well-maintained the mechanism is. Higher-security safes with hardened, anti-manipulation mechanisms are more likely to require drilling. We'll assess the specific safe over the phone or on-site and give you an honest answer before we start, rather than assuming the worst case.

Call us with the safe's brand and model number if you have it (usually on a plate inside the door or on the back). That tells us the lock type and whether manipulation is likely to work. Avoid repeatedly guessing combinations on an electronic lock, since some models lock out for a period after several failed attempts. If you have any paperwork or a purchase receipt with a factory combination or reset code, that can sometimes resolve it immediately without a service call at all.

Yes. Home safes are usually smaller mechanical or electronic models used for documents, cash, or firearms. Business safes range from office cash drawers to larger floor-mounted or fireproof models used for end-of-day deposits or records. The approach is similar, but commercial safes are more likely to be higher-security models, and we'll factor that into the time and cost estimate we give you before starting.

It depends on what you want it to do. For straightforward keypad convenience without WiFi, Kwikset Halo Touch or a standard Schlage Encode work well. For full remote access and app control, Schlage Encode Plus (built-in WiFi) or Yale Assure with a WiFi bridge are strong options. For homes already using a smart home hub, a Z-Wave or Zigbee-compatible lock integrates more cleanly than a standalone WiFi model. We'll ask about your existing devices and how you actually plan to use the lock before recommending a specific model rather than defaulting to whatever's most expensive.

Most standard residential doors accept smart deadbolts without modification, since they're built to fit the same backset and bore hole sizes as traditional deadbolts. The most common fit issues are with older doors that have non-standard prep, very thick or very thin doors outside typical range, or doors where the existing strike plate is misaligned. We check this before you buy hardware when possible, so you're not returning a lock that doesn't fit.

Nearly all smart locks include a physical keypad code as a backup that works independent of WiFi — the WiFi connection is only needed for remote access and notifications, not for the lock to function day-to-day. Most also include a physical key override or a 9-volt battery terminal on the outside to jump-start a dead lock battery in an emergency. We test both backup methods with you during installation so you know they work before you need them.

The vehicle's year, make, model, and VIN — the VIN is visible through the windshield on the driver's side dash, or on your registration and insurance card. With that, we can confirm whether we cover your vehicle's programming system before we drive out, and identify exactly which key or fob part you need so we're not guessing on-site.

Cutting is only the physical shape that turns the lock or opens the door. Programming is the separate step that tells your car's immobilizer computer to recognize that specific key's embedded chip. A key can be cut perfectly and still not start the car if it isn't programmed — this is the most common reason a cheap online key blank doesn't work even though it looks correct.

Yes. All-keys-lost takes longer than adding a key since there's no existing key to authorize through — we decode the vehicle's system from the VIN, cut a new blade, and program it directly to the immobilizer. Most vehicles are still completed on-site in one visit. A small number of makes require a security wait period built into the vehicle's own system regardless of who's doing the programming — we'll tell you upfront if your vehicle has that built-in delay.

Yes. We extract broken key fragments from mailbox cam locks the same way we do from door locks, and in most cases the existing lock can stay in place — we extract the piece, verify the lock still turns cleanly, and cut you a new key. If the lock itself was already worn or damaged before the key broke, we'll recommend replacement instead of forcing a repair that won't hold up.

Yes. We service individual compartment locks on USPS-approved cluster box units (CBUs) commonly used at apartment complexes and HOA communities, including replacing a single failed compartment lock without needing to swap out the whole unit. For larger properties, we can also set up a maintenance schedule so mailroom lock issues get handled proactively instead of one complaint at a time.

In almost every case, yes — mailbox lock service is done in place. We only need to remove the mailbox itself in unusual situations, like a badly corroded or physically damaged mount. For a standard stuck lock, broken key, or lost key, we work directly on the lock without disturbing the mailbox mounting.

Almost always gradual wear — the internal tumblers in the ignition cylinder are shaped to match your key's cuts, and years of turning the same key wears both the key and the tumblers slightly. Eventually the fit gets loose enough that the cylinder hesitates or needs the key wiggled to catch. A worn key is the cheaper possible fix (a fresh-cut key can sometimes resolve it), but if the cylinder itself is worn, only cylinder replacement fixes it long-term. We check both before recommending a repair.

On most vehicles, the ignition won't release the key unless certain conditions are met first — typically the transmission needs to be fully in Park (or the clutch engaged on manuals), and some vehicles also require the steering wheel to be roughly centered to disengage the steering lock. If those conditions are met and the key still won't release, it's likely a mechanical issue inside the cylinder itself. Don't force it — forcing a stuck key is one of the most common ways an ignition cylinder gets damaged badly enough to need full replacement instead of a simpler fix.

Yes, for the large majority of vehicles — ignition cylinder replacement is mobile work we do on-site, at your home, office, or wherever the vehicle currently is. After replacing the cylinder, we program it to accept your existing key or cut and program a new one, so the car is fully drivable when we leave. A small number of vehicles with ignition systems integrated tightly into a security module may require dealer-level equipment — we'll tell you upfront if that's the case for your specific vehicle rather than after we've started.

On most patio doors the latch is built into the handle set, so a loose handle and a latch that won't catch are usually the same failure. The set is held to the panel by threaded posts running through the stile; years of pulling loosens or strips them, the handle starts to rock, and it stops driving the latch properly. Tightening those screws is worth trying first and sometimes solves it outright. If the handle is now solid but the latch still won't engage, the set itself is worn and needs replacing. On the less common mortise-type doors there's a separate lock body recessed in the stile edge, and that body can fail independently of a perfectly good handle — which is why we check which type you have before quoting a part.

It depends which type of door you have, and that's the first thing we check. On the common design, the latch is integrated into the handle set — there is no separate lock to replace on its own, so the set goes as a unit. On a mortise-type door the recessed lock body and the handle set are genuinely separate parts: if the latch is failing but your handles are solid we replace only the lock body, and if the handles are loose or their posts are stripped while the latch works fine, we replace only the handles. On a door old enough for one to have failed the other is often close behind, so we'll show you the condition of both and let you decide rather than automatically quoting the pair.

Almost always, yes. This is the single most common reason people are told to replace an entire patio door. The original branded part is genuinely unavailable — but replacement handle sets aren't sold by door brand, they're sold by specification: hole spacing, center or offset latch, keyed or non-keyed, surface mount or mortise type. We measure the existing hardware and fit a current set from a maker like Amesbury Truth, Interlock, Lawson, Windor, or Sash Controls into the original holes. On mortise-type doors the same logic applies to the lock body, matched on faceplate length, screw spacing, and spindle height. Occasionally an unusual cutout needs minor modification, and we'll tell you before doing anything irreversible to the panel.

Four measurements settle it. First, hole spacing — the distance between the centers of the two mounting screw holes on the handle. Most patio doors use 3-15/16″, but sets are made from roughly 3-1/2″ up to 11-15/16″, and a set that's off by a fraction of an inch will not mount. Second, latch position: a center latch sits in line with the handle, an offset latch sits below it. Third, keyed or non-keyed from the exterior. Fourth, whether the set is surface mounted to the face of the stile or mortise type, recessed into the stile edge. Finish is the only part that's purely preference. If you're calling us, measure the hole spacing and photograph the inside and outside handle — that's usually enough for us to bring the right part on the first visit.

On its own, not very. Most patio doors ship with a light hook latch engaging a thin keeper in the jamb — adequate to hold the door closed, but it depends on the panel having no play in its track. On a worn door the panel can be flexed or lifted enough to clear that latch. The practical fix has two parts: get the rollers and panel height right so the door sits tight in the frame with nothing to exploit, then add an auxiliary foot lock or bolt lock as a second, independent point of engagement. Together those cost far less than a new door and address the real weakness rather than just adding another lock to a loose panel.

Yes, when you're using a keyed exterior handle set. We fit the new handle set with a cylinder that can be keyed to your existing house key, so the patio door opens on the same key as your front door rather than adding another one to the ring. This does require your other locks to use a compatible keyway — we check that on-site before ordering, and if they don't match, rekeying the house locks to a common key is a straightforward add-on we can do in the same visit.